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鍦ㄩ鏍奸噷鎷夊綋鍏垫槸鍟ユ粙鍛

来源: 南方日报网络版     时间: 2019-06-17 19:17:37
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  在香格里拉当兵是啥滋味   官兵走在雪山巡线路上。睢心阳摄   5月,遥远的云南迪庆高原,冰雪悄然消融。香格里拉迎来一年里最好的时节,大批游客蜂拥而至。   游客把去一次香格里拉作为人生愿望。然而,长年累月在这里当兵,该有着什么样的滋味?   走进驻守在这里的四营五连,你会听到这群负责维护由滇入藏“信息高速公路”的官兵说,除了美丽,香格里拉还有“狰狞”的一面。   寒风,才是记忆坐标的原点——新兵们忘不了,头一次来这里,晚上睡觉盖两床棉被还被冻得瑟瑟发抖;老兵们记得,有一次他们不得不拆床板挡住窗户,因为玻璃根本扛不住那么强烈的风。   这里没有路标,却有方向。高海拔、高寒、缺氧构成了他们的生存空间,艰苦孤独伴随着他们的每一天,但青春依然在跋涉中循着使命赋予的方向,坚定远足。   詹姆斯·希尔顿在《消失的地平线》中写道:“太阳最早照耀的地方,是东方的建塘,人间最殊胜的地方,是奶子河畔的香格里拉。”   香格里拉的奶子河畔,不是五连官兵的故土。但是,这群年轻的巡线兵毫不掩饰自己对这片土地炽热的爱。   走双脚蹚出来的路——   这条路上,只有他们留下脚印   每名巡线兵,都领略过香格里拉极致的美丽,也领教过它极端的残酷。   大风、寒冷、高海拔缺氧是香格里拉的常态。巡线时,有时一脚下去,雪就埋到了人胸口;有时一不留神,人就滑下陡坡一大截;有时,刚踏进河流,人就被激流冲出去好远;有时,还未出深林,腿上就爬满了蚂蟥……   维护通信线路的官兵长年行走在雪山之巅、峡谷之底、江水之上。他们一日走过春夏秋冬,一天跨越千米海拔,走过一个又一个山路十八弯,穿过一个又一个滚石飞落处……   巡线之路全程数百公里,海拔低的地方有1000多米,海拔高的地方可达4000多米。在这条路上,只有他们的脚印,一串串循着电线杆线路的孤独脚印。   风一起,雪一下,这脚印又被深深埋住了,好像什么也未曾留下。   “那路,都是别人不走的路,都是我们用双脚蹚出来的。”连队最老的兵、一级军士长黎晓军说。   在一座以“向阳”命名的桥梁附近,有段10多公里长的奇特线路。在坡度超过60°的陡坡上,满是碎石块。脚踩上去松松垮垮,手也无处着力。每挪一步,碎石就会“哗啦哗啦”往下掉。黎晓军每次巡那段线路时,心里依然会发怵。   有路的地方,难走;没路的地方,惊心。   那一年,连队负责某河段线路改造。那里地形复杂,高处是皑皑雪山,低处是滚滚金沙江。连队要将光缆由山脚的平坦处改迁至半山腰的陡坡上。   “我们高原通信兵,什么山没见过?什么坡没爬过?没有路,我们来开路!”连长翁春芳带着大家上了山。   官兵小心翼翼地用探路棍试探着山坡上的碎石,寻找可以落脚的地方。脚边,碎裂的风化岩一块接一块滚下悬崖,砸进汹涌的江水中。每向前挪一步,官兵手心都捏出一把汗。   几经努力,一条最窄处距悬崖边不足20厘米的“路”,就这样被走了出来。脚印渐渐踩实,悬崖上留下了独属于巡线兵的印记。   中士耖宇航,永远忘不了自己第一次执行机线检修任务回来后,连长翁春芳为他端上的那碗鸡汤米线。   那天,他背着一桶油漆,沿着陡峭的山路向上攀爬。从小就严重恐高的他,根本不敢向后看。油漆桶渐渐变得像山一样重,他只能放慢速度,手脚并用。突然,气喘吁吁的他一脚没踩稳,差点滚下山坡。   下了雪山,太阳早已落山,战友们都在溪边等他。别人2个多小时就能巡完的线,他花了5个多小时。又渴又饿的耖宇航捧起一口溪水噙入嘴里,那透凉的雪融水像电一样差点把他击晕。   “以后一定要赶上来!”连长说着,递给他一碗滚烫的鸡汤米线,战友们也都围了上来。   雪山脚下,用纯净山泉熬煮的鸡汤,香气四溢,和着炊烟,浸润夜色。耖宇航几乎是含着泪,吃完了那碗米线。   几年前,在西安高陵区政府上班的耖宇航,从未想过自己会当兵来到香格里拉。那时,听到征兵宣传车的大喇叭在办公楼下喊了2天后,他瞒着女友和家人报了名。   山,爬了一座又一座;时间,过了一年又一年。在香格里拉的巡线路上,耖宇航和战友们留下了一串串脚印。现在,他熟悉这里的每一条河流、每一座山峰。他知道谁家又种了棵香樟树,哪户的孩子刚考上大学。他甚至学会了唱藏族歌曲《玛尼石》。   “雪山是你的心,草原是你的爱,蓝天是你宽广的胸怀,太阳是你的情……”豪迈的歌声伴着寒风飘荡在巡线路上。   曾经,他一度嚷嚷着要退伍,最后却主动选择了留队。后来,耖宇航说,他再也没有吃过那么好吃的米线。   爬过人生中最高的山——   这条路上,他们登顶青春之峰   470座!   这是迪庆地区海拔4000米以上的雪山数量。青藏高原东南的横断山脉,造就了迪庆这一大片世所罕见的雄奇景观。   梅里雪山、哈巴雪山、玉龙雪山、白马雪山……站在石卡雪山远眺,横断山脉与三江并流之间,是一个庞大的雪山世界。   来自贵州的士兵梁正恒,站在石卡雪山之巅远眺。一片舒展的高山草甸映入眼帘,紫色的矮杜鹃为山坡铺上了一层茸茸的艳毯,一直延伸到天际,如梦如幻。   山高人为峰。站在万山之巅,面对这无与伦比的壮阔与妖娆,梁正恒“得意忘形”。他不由自主地打开手机,视频连线女友:“你瞧,我站的地方,比咱俩买的16楼新房还高……”   本想给女友晒晒美景,女友看到时却哭了:“太危险了,干不了咱就回来……”梁正恒爽朗地笑了。   连队还有个战士,至今都没敢告诉爸妈,香格里拉的山到底有多高。记者想为他拍张照片,他连忙摆手:“我妈身体不好。如果让她看到我在这么高的地方当兵,她一定会担心。”   离天空最近的地方,离梦想也最近。青春最令人向往的地方,就是有勇气去征服人生路上一座又一座高峰。   梁正恒兄弟俩一前一后入伍。然而,在香格里拉的高山上当巡线兵,并不那么容易。有一阵子,梁正恒实在撑不住,想打退堂鼓,就给当武警的弟弟打电话。谁知,弟弟的一句“哥,你干得这么好,我不能给你丢脸”,把他准备说出口的话,全堵了回去。   如今,梁正恒成了连队的业务骨干,弟弟成了精武尖兵,兄弟俩双双晋升中士,成为全家人的骄傲。   在香格里拉当兵十几年,四级军士长孙立强常常会想起父亲说过的一句话。父亲是一名老兵,孙立强小时候,曾不止一次地听父亲唠叨“这个兵没有当够”。   那时候,他并不理解这句话是什么意思,只知道父亲当年因为训练受伤,不得不离开部队。   大学毕业后,年少轻狂的孙立强觉得自己可以做任何事。他把家里安排好的工作辞了,要去当兵。   万万没有想到,父亲当时没有表态,但当过兵的爷爷和正当兵的叔叔都反对,怕孙立强吃不了那份苦。然而,他还是拗着劲儿参了军。   那年,孙立强第一次上雪山巡线,走到半山腰便喘着粗气、举步维艰。老班长来到他身边说:“这都坚持不下来,还当什么兵?”最后,他被老班长拖着拽着,手脚并用地爬上了山顶。   那一刻,极目眺望,群山就在脚下,由近及远,从青而黛。这不曾预期的壮美,一下子征服了孙立强。他张开双臂向群山大喊:“雪山,我征服了你……”   青春最高的山峰在心里,人生最大的敌人是自己。蹚过澜沧江,穿越无人区,征服了一座又一座高山后,孙立强才觉得,他征服了曾经的自己。   只有到达山顶,才能看到不一样的风景。从小在海边长大的他,年少时曾无数次慨叹过海上日出的壮美。那是一种有容乃大的气象。   而今,每个清晨,当第一缕阳光扫过雪山之巅,怒放的高山杜鹃散发出若有若无的花香。孙立强俯身凑近轻嗅,在肺的深处,清香自来。   当兵来到香格里拉,爷爷和叔叔当初说的苦和累,孙立强都一一体会过了。从中,他得到了磨砺,收获了成长,也渐渐体味到父亲说的那句“兵没有当够”是什么意思。   看世间最美的风景——   这条路上,他们与美丽人生相遇   夏初,香格里拉山脚的坝子绿意盎然。在上士熊铄灵看来,每天巡线,都可以看到不同的风景。   清晨可以远眺梅里雪山的朝阳,傍晚可以欣赏如梦似幻的彩霞。秋天,纳帕草甸被连片的狼毒花染成红色的海洋,石卡山下成片的桦树林变成了金色的世界。冬季来临,香格里拉又披上了银色梦幻时装。   人生就像一场旅行,最美的风景永远在路上。在香格里拉当兵,熊铄灵不仅看到了最美的风景,还遇到了相伴一生的爱人。   2017年,即将30岁的重庆小伙儿熊铄灵有点烦。亲朋好友给他介绍过好几个对象,都没成。女孩们一看照片上是个阳光帅气的军人,又听说他在香格里拉当兵,开始都挺热乎。可是,交往一段时间后,女孩们知道他长年在高原雪山巡线,回不了家、照顾不了自己,就渐渐没了下文。   说来也是缘分。几年前,熊铄灵的同学给他介绍过一个叫邱琴的美丽女孩。当时,他连女孩的面都没见到,就直接被拒绝了。没想到,过了两年,熊铄灵的小学老师也给他介绍了一个女孩,居然还是邱琴!   既然是躲不开的缘,那就见见吧!邱琴主动提出要来看看熊铄灵。当时,一到香格里拉,邱琴就被美丽的风景深深吸引住了。熊铄灵对她一见钟情,可她见到熊铄灵,却丝毫没有“来电”。用她自己的话就是:爱上了香格里拉,却没有看上他。   在古城一家名叫“遇见”的民宿门口,熊铄灵目送女孩打车远去,呆呆地伫立了很久很久……   那段日子,熊铄灵心灰意冷。那种酸楚的情绪甚至传染给了连队的狗和兔子。了解到情况后, 连队的战友们都来给他当参谋,指导员亲自传授恋爱“秘笈”,就连嫂子们也纷纷为他出主意。   去年2月,熊铄灵终于鼓足勇气,给邱琴发了一条信息:“你到底答不答应做我女朋友?再不答应,我们不耍了!”邱琴回复:“给我3天时间。”   那3天,熊铄灵几乎没有睡觉。他的眼前,全是那个在民宿“遇见”门口远去的背影。   3天后,他等来了邱琴的电话。挂完电话,熊铄灵兴奋得手舞足蹈,马上拨通了家里的电话,“妈,我有女朋友啦……”   今年1月23日,回家休婚假的熊铄灵给连队战友们传回一段微信视频。画面上,美丽的新娘邱琴挽着军装笔挺的熊铄灵,站在舞台中央。新娘笑了,他却哭得一塌糊涂,说不出一句话。   来香格里拉寻找爱情的她,“遇见”在香格里拉当兵的他,战友们都觉得这简直是香格里拉的一段佳话。   后来,熊铄灵才知道,自己能和邱琴喜结良缘,岳父起了很大的作用。在女儿犹豫时,邱琴父亲无数次说起“能在那么艰苦的地方当兵,还干得那么好,这小伙子靠得住”。   熊铄灵很想让妻子再来一趟香格里拉古城。他要到那个民宿“遇见”门口,给邱琴拍张相片,把那种甜蜜的感觉永远定格在香格里拉。   上士左涛最钟情的风景却是香格里拉的纳帕海。每年夏天,纳帕海绿草茵茵,野花竞相开放,雪山、草原、牛羊组成了大西南的塞上风光。   2016年夏天,身着军装礼服的左涛站在纳帕海边,举起右手向着香格里拉雪山的方向,敬了一个标准的军礼。他的身旁是一个穿着婚纱的女孩,笑靥如花。婚纱照定格了一名士兵的最美记忆。   后来,儿子“莽子”出生了,左涛休完假,又回到香格里拉巡线执勤。“莽子”渐渐长大,虎头虎脑特别结实。学会说话后,他常常对着墙上左涛的照片喊“爸爸”,每次在路上看到穿绿军装的人,也会边追着边喊“爸爸”。   2018年9月,妻子带着“莽子”从贵州老家来到了连队。在香格里拉纳帕海边,左涛一家拍下了一张全家福。那天,纳帕海的风很大,游人很少,天空像大海一样澄澈,妻子和孩子脸上灿烂的笑,点亮了左涛的全世界。   在左涛眼里,没有一片海比纳帕海更美丽。他日夜守护的香格里拉,就是人世间最美的风景。   其实,每个在香格里拉当过兵的人,都梦想在这里拍套婚纱照、照张全家福。香格里拉的风景装扮了他们的青春,官兵希望自己也成为香格里拉的一道风景。   去年9月,连队服役期满的10多名战士,全部递交了留队申请。   在香格里拉当兵是啥滋味,一千个人会有一千种答案。或许,有人品出了苦难的回甘,有人闻到了青春的气息,有人收获了爱情的甜蜜……但连队所有官兵都告诉记者这样一句话:“在香格里拉,待久了就会离不开。” 陈典宏 张能华

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