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鎴嶅畧鍦ㄢ€滃ぉ涓婄殑鍝ㄦ墍鈥

来源: 南方日报网络版     时间: 2019-05-21 00:55:53
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  戍守在“天上的哨所”西藏军区边防某团卓拉哨所官兵“五一”期间踏雪巡逻。晏良/摄  西藏军区边防某团利用索道为海拔4687米的卓拉哨所运送新鲜蔬菜等物资。罗凯/摄  5月的卓拉仍是冰封一片,要想看见绿色,还得再等一个月。  每年11月卓拉进入雪季后,哨所官兵的生活就慢下来。大雪封山期间,时间的流逝在卓拉并不明显,一天、两天……一月、两月似乎都一样,放眼望去,面前都是白茫茫的雪山。  哨所的战士杨东儒说,在这里,人要战胜的不仅是恶劣的自然环境,还有触目皆是的“一成不变”。  几十年前,西藏军区某团在海拔4687米山脊的石头上刻下“卓拉哨所”的名字,从此,卓拉就成了边防线上的一个小窗口。这些年来,驻防的官兵换过一批又一批,但不变的是他们的使命——守好卓拉。  卓拉哨所常年风雪不断,每年有长达半年的封山期,这里含氧量不到内地的三分之一,被称为“挂在天上的哨所”。  前哨长嘎桑次仁说,“没人想挑战‘生命禁区’,但我们必须守在这里,因为‘我站立的地方是中国’”。这是西藏军区某团卓拉哨所官兵最爱唱的歌,“我站立的地方是中国,我用生命捍卫守候,哪怕风似刀来山如铁,祖国山河一寸不能丢。”歌词里这样写着。    早上7点50分,卓拉哨所的一天就开始了。杨东儒昨晚又没睡好,早早就醒了,“高原的气候让人睡不安稳。”他说,戍守在高原上的很多官兵都得靠安眠药才能睡个好觉,卓拉海拔高,官兵们更是如此。  那是种什么感觉呢?前半夜翻来覆去睡不着,人非常精神;后半夜迷迷糊糊,也不知道究竟睡了多久,一有点响动,人就醒了。有时候实在困得慌,大脑里就会出现两股力量“打架”,明明清醒了,可眼睛就是睁不开。  这种情况在新来的官兵身上最为常见,有经验的老兵这时就会让他们吸会儿氧,果然就感觉舒服多了。在卓拉,没有什么药比氧气更管用。以前老兵们不好意思吸氧,那是留给新兵或者救命用的,如今条件改善,只要有人需要,随时随地都可以吸氧。  晚上,卓拉下了一夜暴雪,哨所饲养的军犬早早回到犬舍里,蜷缩着挤在一起御寒;官兵出去上个厕所,冻得都要打个寒颤。哨所里的火炉一直生着火,外面风呼呼地吹着,沿着火炉的排气管往里一钻,火焰就会往回涌。看到这一幕,杨东儒就会顺着排气管往上方看,那里装着一个报警器,房间里一氧化碳要是超标了,它就会响。  杨东儒在哨所的两年里,报警器响过几次,都是在官兵们睡熟了的后半夜。刺耳的声音响起,官兵们就往走廊上跑,憋着气拉开窗户,深吸一口凉气,立马清醒了。  夜里迷迷糊糊中还听见打了不少雷,幸好不在哨所附近。卓拉雪多雷多,官兵们都知道雷的厉害,一遇上打雷,他们就会切断所有电源,防止雷电进屋“巡逻”。  在卓拉,一年中大概有一半天数都会打雷,而且雷电极容易溜进屋,在房间里四处跑,要是碰上电器,不打冒烟绝不罢休。哨所里被雷击坏的手机就不少,唯一一台电脑也被雷电打坏了。杨东儒就和雷电有过“亲密接触”,“就看到一道火线从脚边窜过,击中电话机,然后就是一股刺鼻的焦糊味。”    卓拉哨所的官兵习惯把一年分为两季——雪季和雨季。每年的11月至次年的5月是雪季,也是封山期。这个季节里,常常是早上还晴空万里,下午暴雪就铺天盖地而来,第二天一早又放晴了。官兵们每天必做的事就是铲雪,把哨所门前平台上的雪推到一边,清理出一条巡逻通道,然后备装巡逻。  哨所里有一个大铁桶,紧挨着火炉摆放,把铁桶装满雪也是官兵们每天的任务之一,日常的生活用水就是这么来的。卓拉缺水,离哨所最近的取水点是五六公里之外的日月湖,5月那里仍然一片冰封,想要在湖边洗衣服,得先用十字镐在湖面上凿冰半小时,才能见着水。  雪季时,官兵们两三天才会洗漱一次,如果要洗澡,那得几个月后轮换时下山到连队再洗。平日在哨所,他们也就简单给自己擦个身子。杨东儒说,就算是雨季,大家也很少洗,因为容易感冒。坚守“雪山孤岛”,官兵们养成了勤俭节约的好习惯,半年前,杨东儒给哨所的战友带了一支牙膏,结果那支牙膏到现在还没用完。  平日,官兵们见得最多的就是雪和山,偶尔看到一只牦牛都是稀罕事。去年年底,驻地政府某单位派出5人组成慰问团登上哨所,队伍里有两名女士,官兵们激动了好久。临走前,女士主动要求给他们一个拥抱,哨所里年龄最小的战士一下红了脸,大家为这事打趣了很久。  去年,部队和驻地县政府体恤卓拉的官兵用水困难,给哨所装了蓄水池和净化器等设备,考虑到高原气温低,还特意在蓄水池外面加了一层保温层。但气温太低,管道和蓄水池里的水仍然结了冰。    已经过去的2018年,最让官兵们高兴的是从连队到卓拉的索道修好了,哨所近半个世纪以来运输物资靠“人背马驮”的历史结束了。  卓拉哨所距连队10多公里,中间隔着三道坡,分别是“忘乡坡”“忘情坡”“忘忧坡”,其中“忘情坡”最险,坡度大,不踩实很容易滑落。四五月份在内地已是春夏之交,但在卓拉积雪还有没膝深,即使是体力较好的官兵,步行上哨所也得攀爬近5个小时。  索道修好之前,每隔一段时间官兵们就得下山去把新鲜蔬菜等物资背上来,这其实是一项危险的任务。每次上山,他们都得准备好探路棍、“救命绳”等东西。大雪掩埋了地上的一切,官兵们上山的每一步都得靠探路棍,一不小心就可能掉进雪窟窿里。关键时刻,“救命绳”真的能救命,把一端系在战友腰上,然后互相使劲推扶,靠这些简单装备,他们化解过不少险情。  新来的官兵第一次“背菜”大多体验不佳。吕胜超说,肺就像拉风箱,喘得厉害,走几步就想坐下,多吸几口气,可是手脚怕冷,坐久了更难受。  这个刚满20岁的小伙对“背菜”印象实在太深了。去年12月,因为战友生病,他们下了山,结果回来时天就黑了。“特别绝望。”他说,一行人只能靠手机照明、寻找方向,经常上了一个坡才发现位置不对,又折回来,“天又冷,雪往脸上一吹,生疼,手抓着石头借力,立马感觉被‘粘’住了。”  回到哨所,吕胜超就往火炉边靠,他的手又红又肿,鞋子里都是雪,脚早就麻了。战友给他打来热水泡脚,他刚把脚放进去就抽筋了,疼得他站也不是坐也不是。  嘎桑次仁对此也深有感触,作为哨长,几乎每次下山他都得带队。2016年,他刚上卓拉哨所那会儿,索道还没修建,官兵们每星期都得下山去“背菜”,大雪封山前,还得“冬囤”。  “冬囤”主要囤大米和煤炭,封山期前一个月是哨所的官兵们最繁忙的时候。一车车大米和煤炭到了哨所山下平台的位置就再也无法前进一步,想进大门还得“爬过”266级台阶。嘎桑次仁说,他们背完大米背煤炭,每天没有执勤任务的官兵轮流来,那大半个月,战士们几乎每人都得摔几跤。“实在没力气了,才会被煤筐‘拽’倒在雪地里。”看着满身满脸煤渣的年轻战士坐在地上眼巴巴地看着他,嘎桑次仁觉得又可爱又令人心疼。    卓拉哨所里的官兵大都很年轻,年纪最小的还没满20岁。平日里,没有执勤任务时,官兵们努力将“千篇一律”的日子过得丰富多彩。  吕胜超喜欢堆雪人、掏雪洞。上哨所之前,他从没见过这么大的雪,常常是一夜之间,通往哨所的台阶就被雪全覆盖了,积雪的厚度有一人多高。天气好时,他就拉着战友到雪地里打滚,或者掏出个雪洞钻进去,然后让战友把洞口封住,不一会儿,他又从雪洞上方钻出来了。  战士拥忠格西喜欢打台球,哨所里有一张台球桌,没有任务时他就去打,时间长了,练就一手好球技。他还喜欢去巡逻,因为“穿着军装,拿着枪的样子很帅”。  有时候,大家在一起烤火时会把电视打开,也不看,就是听个声音,可是外面的电视信号发射器总是会被风吹歪,经常得去拨一拨,电视画面才清楚。  杨东儒没什么爱好,偶尔空闲时就视频聊天看看家人。哨所信号不好,打电话有时得跑到另一个山头上。天气好时,他会约上战友,结伴去山脊上打电话,营房左侧300多米都是悬崖,大家必须互相有个照应。  他参军13年了,前段时间,妻子又为他生了一个女儿,儿女双全,杨东儒别提有多开心了。从军这么多年,他觉得亏欠妻子很多。说起家属,这个腼腆质朴的男人眼眶红红的,“她和儿子一起重感冒,去医院输液,原本两个小时的输液时间,她把点滴调快了,只输1个小时,然后去照顾儿子,也不告诉我。”“煲电话粥”时,妻子偶然说起这事,杨东儒“心里很不是滋味”。    上卓拉之前,每个官兵都知道哨所的情况,但每次团里选拔,报名的人总是很多,罗培说:“在边防线上,我知道每时每刻我护卫的都是我的国家——作为一个军人,守住边防是很自豪的。”  罗培是嘎桑次仁之后卓拉哨所的新任哨长,来自西藏江孜。谈起家乡,他语气里充满着自豪。1904年,英军入侵西藏时,曾在此发生著名的江孜保卫战,从此人们称江孜为“英雄城”。 罗培从小就听着江孜的英雄故事成长,立志长大后也要当一名军人。  但命运跟他开了个玩笑。高考时,他考了360分,那一年的重点线是285分。填报志愿时,他想填昆明的军校,就翻了名录,看到昆明地区只有一所昆明理工大学,想也没想就填上了。结果入学一了解,他想报的那所军校其实是昆明陆军学院,差点崩溃。“放弃了那么多好学校,就是为了穿军装,你说我能甘心吗?”罗培说,幸好后来遇上大学生招兵,这才没错过自己的军人梦。  参军之后,罗培和家人很难聚在一起,特别是女朋友,常抱怨他不能陪自己。“她虽然爱唠叨,但对我还是很好的。我就是想当兵。”罗培说。  去年8月1日,他俩领了结婚证,罗培一心想着要给结婚纪念日留下点军人的色彩,日子就定在了建军节。有时候,妻子实在想念他,就会问他什么时候退伍,罗培如实说,自己也不知道,就想一直当兵当下去。戍守在高高的卓拉哨所,“主权”的概念变得触手可及,罗培没想过脱下军装的生活,他和战友想的都是,在这儿一天就要守好一天,绝不能把祖国的边界守小了。  中国青年报·中青在线记者 张均斌 视频制作 李若一 来源:中国青年报

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