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足不出户的紫禁卫士:不少人连毛主席纪念堂都没去过

来源: 南方日报网络版     时间: 2019-03-22 15:01:33
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3月6日上午,武警故宫中队的执勤哨兵下哨。李超/摄   “上元之夜”的第二天,清晨6点,起床号划破北京中轴线上方的天空,古老的紫禁城经过前夜的喧嚣,已恢复宁静。武英殿旁的小院里,武警北京总队执勤一支队故宫中队的官兵们照例起床洗漱,准备出操。   驻扎在西华门内,没有专门的跑道和操场,围绕故宫跑圈是故宫中队雷打不动的早操课目。10分钟后,一支队伍悄然出发。这样跑一圈有3公里的路程,大约需要15分钟。   初春的北京天还没有亮,巨大的宫殿在夜色中隐约显现出轮廓。常年驻守故宫,让故宫中队的官兵们成了离这座世界上现存规模最大、保存最完整的古建筑群最近的人。近万座宫殿和六百年的中华文明,是他们守护的对象。   哨位上的荣誉与快乐   去年一年,故宫年度接待观众量首次突破1700万人次,春节期间的“贺岁迎祥――紫禁城里过大年”活动,7天接待了40万游客。珍品文物和文创产品让故宫成为人们心中的“网红”,追文创、看展览,成为一股由故宫引领的新潮流。   每天上午8点,太和门缓缓推开,执勤官兵会成为这一天首批走入故宫的人。担负固定哨位执勤和巡逻勤务,是白天官兵们在故宫内的任务。   太和殿前,是故宫中队的第一组执勤哨位。广场上凹凸不平的地砖已有600年的历史,哨兵们每隔半小时,就要在这些“文物”上走一圈。   战士李思维清晰地记得第一天上哨时的情景。按照惯例,新兵下连后,每组哨位有两个人,老兵带新兵。老家在湖南的李思维此前从未来过北京,更没有进过紫禁城。与紫禁城的初见,就是他走进故宫中队,开始守卫她的那一天。   李思维的记忆中,那天阳光明媚,头顶碧空如洗,他作为副哨跟随老兵来哨位换班。广阔的太和殿广场上,游人络绎不绝,两队武警官兵笔直站立,相对行了一个军礼。   第一次站在太和殿门前,李思维的主哨告诉他,站在这里,“守卫的是中华文明”,一分钟也不能松懈。“那是第一天站在这么多人面前,感觉很多游客都在看我,突然觉得肩上的责任很重,也很骄傲。”李思维说。   然而,尽管一班执勤只有两个小时,站在这里却并不轻松。到了夏天,故宫大理石吸热极快,地表温度时常突破温度计极限。加上旅游旺季,游客增多,热浪与喧嚣让哨兵看到远处的建筑物都被炙烤得扭曲。而冬季的神武门,穿堂风呼啸而过,夜间执勤的哨位就设在门前。   中士贺磊刚守卫故宫7年,所有哨位他都已经执勤过无数次。提起这7年,他早已忘了夏季的炎热与冬天的寒冷,想到最多的是执勤时遇到的一张张游客的笑脸。   和来自世界各地的游客打交道是哨兵们的日常工作。“洗手间在哪里”“出口在哪里”是游客们最常问的问题,有时候贺磊刚执一班勤要回答几十甚至上百遍。但他从来不觉得烦,因为同样寻常的,还有游客送来的遮阳伞和矿泉水。   “游客看到我们站在太阳底下,经常会主动给我们打伞、送水,但我们不能收,只能口里说着谢谢婉拒,心里很感动。”贺磊刚说,就在今天春节举办的故宫过大年活动中,每天都有来故宫过年的小孩跑来向他问好。“那时感受到作为军人的骄傲,觉得执勤再苦再累也是值得的。”   故宫开放这些年   随着故宫逐渐开放,各类展览与外事活动越来越多,执行临时任务变得常态化。2017年,故宫博物院举办“千里江山-历代青绿山水画特展”年度大展,北宋画家王希孟的《千里江山图》首次全卷开展。前来看展的观众为了一睹名画真容,常常需要排3个小时的队,才能近距离欣赏5分钟。负责维持秩序的执勤官兵每天要重复几百遍“同志您好,这里不能长时间滞留”。   “老兵”贺磊刚说,“执勤第一条:以人民为中心”,劝说游客时,再拥挤喧闹的环境也要有耐心,不能先想自己的苦和累。   今年“紫禁城过大年”与“上元之夜”活动举办,让故宫一度日游客量超过8万人次。中队临时加勤,出动多组巡逻哨全天执勤。“上元之夜”活动日,哨兵们早在下午就登上城楼哨位。毫无遮挡的情况下,寒冷的风刀子般割在脸上,有些战士下哨后感到脸都麻木了。   除了举办展览,外事活动也是故宫中队执勤任务的重中之重。每次协调游客配合外事活动,战士张银有自己的经验和办法。“要和大家讲道理。我会告诉他们,这是在为祖国的外交事业作贡献。”这是他贯彻依法文明执勤、与游客打交道最常说的一句话,“一说一个准,大家都能理解,也会配合”。   “历史也活在我们身上”   站在大殿前的哨兵同样是故宫里一道独特的风景,每天执勤中问路的,其中不乏外籍游客。为了能够流畅交流,同时展现中国军人的良好形象,战士庞笑非闲暇时,把《新概念英语》当成休闲读物,一有时间就背单词。每天收操后,对着古老的红墙背英语单词成了他的必修课。   如今,在故宫工作人员的专业指导下,中队拥有自己的英文版“礼貌用语100句”“问路答疑100句”。官兵们都能熟练用英语说出故宫最基本的路线图。“我们站在这里,代表的是国家形象,代表的是中国军人的形象。”排长唐鹏程说。   学习外语的同时,中队官兵们也在学习故宫的历史。他们走过紫禁城的每一座宫殿,都能说出它们的故事。   张辰是中队里的第一代故宫讲解员。最初关于故宫的典故,张辰是在导游口中听到的。执勤时,各个旅行团的导游一边讲解一边在张辰面前走过,那些只言片语的故事让他对故宫的历史产生了兴趣。于是,中队图书馆里的书被他翻了个遍。   像张辰一样的战士还有很多,列兵王楠把讲解词背得滚瓜烂熟。春节期间,一个年轻母亲带着孩子游玩,小朋友拿着地图跑到他的面前,问他乾清宫的故事。听完王楠熟练又生动的讲解,小孩子高兴地一边鼓掌一边说,“叔叔,你真厉害”。   “故宫的历史也活在我们身上。”王楠说。   生活在红墙黄瓦的紫禁城,历史早已融入中队官兵的生活。如今中队居住的营房是袁世凯修建宝蕴楼时警卫排住过的,旁边的宿舍是御马厩,院子里的黑枣树也有600年的历史。大家常开玩笑说,自己是住在文物里。   每天下午清场后,故宫里的空地就成了中队的训练场所,繁重的执勤任务下,官兵们也始终坚持体能训练。   夕阳洒在辉煌的琉璃瓦上,太和殿前广场安静广阔,只有风声和官兵们出拳的声音。这是贺磊刚最喜欢的画面,总能让他忘了疲惫。只要想到这样被自己守卫着的故宫,贺磊刚就会笑:“从心里觉得故宫太美了,执勤不辛苦,因为我太喜欢她了。”   张辰喜欢看阳光映着金水河里故宫的倒影,“那一幕宁静祥和,心里只希望国家太平”。   每个战士都有自己喜欢的故宫故事。张银喜欢讲起金銮殿后出水的龙头,在别人眼中也许不起眼,他却知道,“那就是水龙头的来历”。贺磊刚喜欢角楼的结构,每次跑操经过,他总在想象,支撑着这座没有一根钉子的古建筑上的楔子究竟是什么样的。   太和殿前哨位旁的镀金缸、乾清门前与哨位并肩而立的青铜狮子、每天出操跑过的金水河……这些触手可及的文物是中队官兵日常聊天时谈论的主角。《故宫100问》里的故事被他们编成问答题解闷。官兵们熟悉这里的每一座宫殿、每一个院落,每次在为游客指路时,他们的脑海里会立即拼出一副“3D地图”。   “足不出户”的“紫禁卫士”   尽管守卫着最著名的名胜古迹,居住在北京城的最中心,故宫中队的官兵们却几乎没有逛过北京。来了6年,贺磊刚从没有去过颐和园,唐鹏程去过最远的地方是天安门广场。整个中队集体行动的活动范围最远只到过西单,不少战士甚至连毛主席纪念堂都没有去过。   任务繁重、没有时间是中队官兵“足不出户”的主要原因。   今年春节,“故宫过大年”与“上元之夜”接连两个活动,让官兵们忙得连轴转。节日期间的晚上,贺磊刚和战友们需要登上天安门城楼执勤站岗。那是农历猪年的第一个圆月,当月光照亮了故宫角楼,看着北京城的万家灯火,游客举家前来游玩过年,贺磊刚突然有些想家。   他已经7年没有回家过年,每逢节日阖家团圆的日子,都是中队官兵最忙的时候。入伍以来他唯一一次与家人春节团聚是在2018年。母亲千里迢迢探亲来到故宫,正好赶上贺磊刚上哨,只能远远地站在角落望着他。为了防止出现秩序混乱,贺磊刚的注意力全部在游客身上,甚至没有多看母亲几眼。   两个小时的执勤站岗时间,贺磊刚的母亲就在旁边陪了他两个小时,交班后对他说的第一句话是“你瘦了”。分别的那天,贺磊刚望着渐行渐远的母亲,站在哨位上郑重地行了一个标准的军礼。   “一家不圆万家圆。”看着城墙下热闹的人群,每一名“紫禁卫士”都会在心里这样告诉自己。   远方的亲人以这群“紫禁卫士”为骄傲。战士李思维说,尽管父亲从未到过北京,却喜欢和别人绘声绘色地聊故宫,最后总会骄傲地说上一句“那是我儿子守卫的故宫”。每当被人问起,贺磊刚的母亲就会笑着告诉别人,儿子在北京当兵,在故宫里执勤,就守着电视里的那座金銮殿。   2月20日,万众瞩目的“上元之夜”结束了,执勤还在继续。故宫清场后,宫内的哨位会在夜间调整到神武门外。照例两小时一班岗,困倦成了官兵们最大的“敌人”,一夜分成几段睡是常有的事。有时候冬天遇上刮风下雪,哨兵们就顶着风去哨位,实在打哈欠困了,“多打几个哆嗦就清醒了”。   夜晚的故宫没有了白日里的喧嚣,一辆辆卡车开进来,工人们开始加班加点进行修缮。站在神武门外,身后是赶修的宫殿,面前是繁华的北京街景,老人在故宫博物院前的空地上散步、跳舞,孩子们在一旁打闹嬉戏。每当这时候,唐鹏程总有一种恍惚的感觉,忘了凛冽的寒风,“好像穿越了。”   夜间的修缮工作一直持续到清晨6点,然后神武门也将关闭,整个故宫空无一人。而此时,武英殿旁的小院里,起床号刚刚吹响。   从哨位走下来,贺磊刚伸了个懒腰,看到街上已经有早起上班的行人。他沿着斑驳的城墙往回走。   “又是一天平安顺利结束了。”贺磊刚心里想着,身旁诺大的紫禁城肃穆安宁。   (视频制作:郑天然)   中国青年报?中青在线记者 郑天然 通讯员 王斌 王炜 来源:中国青年报

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